The seasonal creek would com into the plant half and exit the swimming half. ![]() This simple system can be quickly taught to an employee/operator. Operators point the dredge where they want to cut, lower the cutterhead, and move forward. What I envision, plan is a center depth about 24", EPDM liner, pond divided in half by sand bags within an inch or two of the surface, with 1/4" clear gravel in the half with plants, under the gravel some pvc piping to pull water through the roots and gravel with a small pump. Horizonal dredges are nimble and easily maneuvered in various sized and shaped bodies of water. I started digging a square-ish dish shaped pond 35'x35' in the line of the creek about 50yards from the big pond. It excavates sediment with a durable, high-torque, direct-drive cutter head and pumps at rates up to 1500. The system is simple and easy to operate. It relies on 2 stainless steel pontoons that are compartmentalized into 3 independent sections and offer a 2 to 1 displacement factor for flotation. As soon as I can get gutters on that water will go into the pond too. The dredge is similar to a small pontoon boat. We built a new house and dump our open loop geo thermal into the pond. For most ponds, the most cost-effective option is mechanically dredging lakes with a floating excavator or Aquamog that is capable of direct sediment transfer. In the spring and wet times it overflows to create a small creek. We are on 10 acres in MN we have a man made pond with a mostly clay bottom, cattails and arrowhead plants, built by the previous owner for the wetland bank. ![]() I need help in designing a swimming pond, this is what I have, think so far.
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